Bangkok’s central night bazaar the Suan Lum market has become an institution in the capital of Thailand since its opening in 2001. Sadly it is also an institution under threat.

The market is located in the Lumpini area of central Bangkok, with the nearest and easiest access being Lumpini underground station.

This market is the most sophisticated of Bangkok’s markets, it opens from 6 pm to around midnight everyday. The market is well organized and compared to Chatuchak it is quite refined. The corridors between the shops are wide enough to easily pass people as they look at the shops on one side or another and whilst it does get warm being at night and with sufficient room for air flow you will not tend to get too hot, obviously if you are not used to the heat of Bangkok carry a bottle of water with you.

The market sells a range of clothing & accessories, the ubiquitous fake/copied watches/CDS/DVDS, lower end and fashion jewellery pieces, toys, weapons, lighters, household goods (mostly decorative), health products as well as what can only be described as nik naks. The market also has some fairly interesting and original artwork and handicrafts. When looking to purchase anything here you must bargain hard, but you are not likely to get the deals and bargains that you will get at Chatuchak (the weekend market), mostly because this market is open all week and also because the rents are higher here. Remember that when you bargain in Thailand to always do it with a smile on your face as it can cause upset.

Suan Lum has a number of restaurants and bars that are set up in the center of the market where you can get various types of Western and Thai food but for me the food hall is the best place to eat. This giant covered and open air area has a stage with various live music acts at one end and a giant screen at the other for watching the football. On one side are beer and beverage sellers, also with some western food and on the other is Thai food stalls. For purchasing food and some drink you will need to get a voucher these can be purchased at various well signposted areas in the market and whatever you do not use you can return. I generally prefer to sit down and have some drinks then get some snacks - there is a very reasonable Satay stall at the top of the food hall on the right hand side as you look towards the giant screen. Normally you will be overrun by waitresses that work for the various beer and drink sellers and they will bring your drinks to you but you normally have to get the food yourself.


Suan Lum is a great place to spend a few hours just soaking up the atmosphere in the food hall or exploring the shops, and is one of the first places I take people when they come to Bangkok. Sadly this is an institution under threat as officially the lease ran out in 2006 and they were supposed to have moved on in April 2007. But for the time being they are still there, my understanding is that the land has now been sold but that court proceedings are continuing and will eventually force the market to move on but until that time take the opportunity to visit the market.

The night bazaar also has its own website www.suanlum-nightbazaar.com .